A combination of portland cement and lime may be used as the cementing agent in each type of mortar. Type S mortar is already a mixture of sand, portland cement and lime. But why does this matter for old houses? A sign of impending disaster. Lime Mortar vs Portland Cement Up until 1871 in America, nearly every masonry building was made using lime mortar. I’ve done some work this way, so far only minor repointing, but that was less than a year ago so not enough time to see any damage if I’m doing something wrong. Portland cement is used for structural applications to form an object. While Portland cement continues to be commonly used in new constructions of brick and concrete, it is not recommended in the repair and restoration of brick and stone-built structures originally built using lime mortar. Thank goodness whoever did that did a poor job, because if the repointed joints had been the proper depth it could have caused irreversible damage to the stones. It very quickly became a favored additive to residential and commercial lime mortars to attain a faster and higher compressive strength and eventually phased out the use of lime mortar almost entirely by the mid 20th-century. Learn how your comment data is processed. A sign of impending disaster. This makes sense, but are there any issues mixing these mortars with stone masonry? Re: Type S mortar vs Portland cement No. Stone home being prepared for lime mortar re-pointing. If you are a more particular person (you know who you are Mr. Color-Coded Socks!) Required fields are marked *. The thought was that stronger mortar is better (not always the case) and with that portland cement was king because of both its quick set time and high strength. Though considered antiquated, it is still specified today, primarily on military projects or projects located in the northern states. Lime mortar is more porous than cement mortars, and it wicks any dampness in the wall to the surface where it evaporates. When you hit Portland cement it’s going to give off a higher-pitched ring compared to lime mortar. The heat burns off the carbon dioxide in the rock leaving calcium oxide, commonly called quicklime. For use in masonry mortar for at or below grade type construction. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. When the selected mortar is harder than the brick it surrounds then the brick will become sacrificial and worn away rather than the mortar. Uses [ edit ] Lime mortar today is primarily used in the conservation of buildings originally built using lime mortar, but may be used as an alternative to ordinary portland cement. Another way to determine Portland cement vs. lime mortar is to use a hammer of some sort to knock at the surface. It had been repointed with cement in the 40s and most of it had popped off. Portland cement mortar lasts about 50 years, and sometimes cracking and deterioration is visible within 10 years. Masonry cement and mortar cement have slightly different ingredients than portland- lime blend, but they all contain the same portland cement for strength develop- ment and each mees ASTM CFKDStandard Specification for Mortar for Unit Masonry. A few years ago I learned all about lime mortar and repointed my stone foundation one summer. Though the terms are often used synonymously, cement, concrete, and mortar are actually three distinctly different materials: Portland Cement/Lime vs. Masonry Cement/Stucco . Cement hardens very quickly, but may be too strong for some applications, e.g., working with old bricks. Using a lower strength of natural hydraulic lime mortar when compared against Portland cement, will work together and complement natural stone and soft brick applications; whilst improving plasticity and retaining a high level of solidity with a reduction of shrinkage. Take your house key out and scrape it across the mortar joint in question. Well, as mortars got harder through the years so did bricks. Take good care of your brick and stone by choosing the right mortar when you need to make repairs and your historic masonry will be protected for centuries to come, use the wrong mortar and in only a few years you may end up with disintegrating brick that is extremely difficult to replace. The mortar, as it can contain Portland cement with lime or masonry cement, lime and sand, brings together masonry units in structural systems. You may, however be able to add fireclay to type S mortar to make refractory mortar. A softer hydraulic lime mortar will absorb and evaporate the moisture from the surrounding masonry, thus allowing it to breathe. The characteristics of hydrated lime provide unique benefits in masonry applications that distinguish cement-lime mortars from other masonry mortar materials. Whilst Portland cement continues to be used in new buildings of brick and concrete construction, it should never be used in the repair or restoration of brick and stone buildings, originally built with lime mortar. They are an invaluable resource selling lime mortars, cleaning products, masonry tools and everything you need to restore or repair historic masonry. Lime has been an important component of mortars for over 2000 years. Unfortunately, over the last 150 years or more, Portland cement based mortars have commonly been used for repointing joints that were previously filled with lime mortar. You will find mortar available in the following types: *Type K is largely not available today since that is true lime mortar, but the other types are available at most locations or for order. A cement is a binder, a substance used in construction that sets and hardens and can bind other materials together. Our range of cement and lime are sourced from the best suppliers these include the popular Breedon general purpose cement and Jetcem waterproofing cement, all of which are more than suitable for landscaping, driveways or building projects and any repair or maintenance jobs. Over time, concrete struggles to maintain its hold. The mix ratio of cement and the other ingredients determines the compressive and bond strength, including the absorption potential. Retention of water in mortar improves carbonation in pure lime mortars and results in best conditions for early hydration of cement lime mortars – thus reducing cracking and water penetration into hardened mortar joints. If the key leaves a mark but doesn’t do any damage then you’re in the portland cement club. It is important that the mortar is softer than the masonry. When you see a very old masonry wall, look closely at the mortar. Same uses as Type S and where portland/lime is specified. It’s not quite as easy for us, but there is a simple way to tell what type of mortar you should be using. In this post, I’ll explain the differences between the two, how to determine which you have, and even where to source matching mortar for your old house. Masonry Cement specified under ASTM C 91, with lime has lower bond strengths. Lime will last longer than Portland cement. Lime mortar has been around since biblical times. Often, the mortar walls have moved somewhat, but you won’t see any cracks in a lime wall. For those restoring a historic building built before 1930 it’s important to select the right mortar to avoid spalling bricks. If you’ve got a masonry building built before the 1930s there is a good a chance you’ve got lime mortar rather than portland cement mortar, and if it was built before the 1880’s then it’s almost certain to be lime. Â. I have the same question. 4j) are available that meet the requirements of M, S, and N mortars with or without further addition of cement. In recent years there has been an increasing amount of research on similar mix designs and how they compare to Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL) based mortars used in Europe to repoint historic masonry buildings. If your house was built after 1930 you likely have only portland cement mortar and can pick up the right mortar at your local Home Depot. I can’t tell you how many old houses I’ve seen repointed with cement mortar and now all the joints are popping out- which is of course the least damaging result, because I’ve also seen entire faces of bricks popped off. The variety of strengths available today is mostly accomplished by other additives and air-entrenching in the mortar. Lime mortar is one of the oldest types of mortar known but with the introduction of Portland cement in the 19th Century, the use of lime mortar in new construction, declined. Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance. Lime mortar is a slow curing, easy to work with, very versatile mortar that is made very simply of lime putty and sand. Hairline cracks form due to the mortar being more rigid than the wall. Your email address will not be published. The slaked lime used to make lime mortar is created by cooking limestone rocks at 1,650°F. If you select Vintage Building, youâll get craftsmen unmatched for the superior result we are able to provide. A brick from the mid-1800s can be extremely soft compared to one from the mid-1900s and the appropriate mortar has to be selected to pair with the appropriate brick. Once you know the difference between lime mortar and portland cement you can undertake the work of repointing or repairing damaged historic masonry feeling confident you’re using the right mix of materials and techniques. Harder than straight lime but still has a low enough psi, or so I’m told. In today’s home stores lime is largely missing from all mortars. These then draw in water that becomes trapped in the fabric. dusty PS - I mixed my own 1:3:1:1 for setting bricks, but after the first day I cut the lime down to 1/4 part. Mortar should always be softer than the brick it is paired with. Good article – thank you. The more portland cement is added to any mortar the harder it gets, and the harder it gets the greater potential you have to damage brick. Lime Mortar Mix Ratio Lime mortar that is made from 98% pure calcium will last 100 years minimum. Congratulations, you’ve just diagnosed your mortar in the least scientific, but most convenient way possible! The first manufacturer of portland cement in America was David Saylor in the Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania in 1871. Lime mortar, especially putty lime mortars can become soft and friable with age but this does not necessarily mean they are not functioning. This is not a fault of the brick, but of the repointing material. For those restoring a historic building built before 1930 it’s important to select the right mortar to avoid spalling bricks. But why does that matter? Your email address will not be published. That mix was popular in the early 20th-century as lime gradually phased out for portland so depending on the age of the home it will be a good fit. Portland cement is used for structural applications to form an object. Lime is a cement which is a binder or glue which holds things together but cement is usually reserved for Portland cement. If your stonework has an ordinary concrete mortar between the stones, you will have probably noticed cracking, pitting and crumbling. I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Published On - May 1, 2018. A lot of damage is done to traditional buildings by pointing them with Portland; it is a fortunate situation that this has never been done on this Roanoke church; it is simply a periodic maintenance job in this case. ASTM C270 (Mortar for Unit Masonry) specification states that if a portland cement-lime blend contains Type N hydrate, the blender must show through performance testing that the Type N product is not detrimental to the soundness of the mortar. The use of Portland Cement/Lime mortars for unit masonry and/or stucco was the standard of the industry for nearly a century. Remember, Masonry Cement is generally better for the mason and Mortar Cement provides a better mortar for the Building. It is also the preferred mortar … The powdery quicklime would then be submerged in water for weeks or months to create a lime putty called “slaked” lime that would be mixed with sand (or other aggregates) and water to make lime mortar.  Â, Lime continues to impress; if you look at a modern masonry building, they must put vertical expansion joints periodically to separate the wall sections. On very old large brick buildings and churches like this one, the lime mortar has enough plasticity that these expansion joints are not needed. Next time you are at a modern brick school, look at the vertical caulked joints along the walls. You will see the engineered breaks necessary because there is virtually no movement with Portland; there is no flexibility. The argument on whether to use lime mortar vs portland cement is actually a very important one and using the wrong mortar can cause irreparable damage to historic brick. If your house was built before 1880 then you likely have traditional lime mortar and should use only that. Repointing with lime mortar is no harder than repointing with cement mortar, you just have to search a little to find the right products and you have to make your own mortar mix- and mix it properly. Lime hardens much more slowly than cement-containing mortars, making it much more workable. If the mortar scrapes away and you could dig it out without turning your key into a nub then you likely have lime mortar or at least a mortar with higher lime content than portland cement. Most stone, other than maybe sandstone, would be a lot harder than old bricks and even portland cement, so would mortar matching be an issue in this case? Portland cement was Invented in 1824 by Joseph Aspdin by mixing calcined hard limestone with clay and mixing it down into a slurry before heating it a second time. everything you need to restore or repair historic masonry. Lime is also less brittle and less prone to cracking, and any cracked areas can absorb carbon dioxide and mend over time. Portland cement was able to attain very quick setting times compared to lime, but its strengths were fairly limited compared to natural cements and it didn’t catch on for about 50 years. Is it inadvisable to use Portland cement mortar to repoint the foundation in the basement? It might be difficult to tell the difference using this trick unless you have a way to compare the two. I’d encourage you to check out my friends at Limeworks. And Limeworks can even make a batch of mortar to match your sample in color and strength exactly! Since the introduction of With freeze / thaw cycles it will affect the bricks, turning them to dust or breaking off the faces, called spalling. Lime has ‘free lime’ available, and when the walls are wetted, the free lime moves into the hairline cracks. Lime mortars have high water retention, creating an improved bond as there is more contact between unit and mortar. Portland cement came into rapid growth from 1871 to 1920 when its quick initial strength (though it had lower long term strength than natural cements) made it ideal in the rapid growth of America during the Industrial Revolution. Feel free to reference my previous post How To: Repoint Historic Mortar for the details of how the process works. Lime mortar has better properties than straight concrete mortar. Read more…. This is preferable for exterior masonry and structural masonry making Mortar Cement a better choice for weather resistance through lower permeability of the masonry, and for seismic and load bearing masonry. Remember when choosing lime, strongest is not always best, mortars should be sacrificial. then you can send a sample of your mortar off to a lab like Limeworks.us for a Historic Mortar Analysis. Thank you! 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